Thomas Wines Braemore Semillon

Despite being weaned on the full-throttle shiraz of McLaren Vale where he grew up, Andrew (Thommo) Thomas developed a deep passion for the more reserved wines of the Hunter Valley during his formative winemaking years. Having lived in the Hunter now for over twenty five years, with over ten of those spent as a winemaker at Tyrrell’s, Andrew has gained a great respect for and understanding of the two great wine styles that the Hunter produces – semillon and shiraz. In 1997, Andrew started Thomas Wines with a view to making single vineyard semillon and shiraz that would rival the Hunter greats. Sourced from low-cropping old and mature vineyards in the areas traditionally suited to each variety the wines are lavished with attention in the winery using a modern spin on the techniques learnt from the Hunter’s old timers.  Thomas Wines are leading a growing band of next-generation Hunter Valley producers who are determined to see the region regain its former reputation albeit in a contemporary expression.

The chosen one: Thomas Wines Braemore Semillon 2015

My impression:

The delicate lemongrass and lime fruit characters intermingle with an attractive grassy complexity. Long crisp green apple, citrus and mineral aftertaste that lasts for minutes. Let it linger, it’s absolutely worth it.

In the press:

An example of a master winemaker of semillon at play with a great vineyard and a great vintage. The expectation was sky high, but easily cleared by this beautiful semillon, with its gleaming rivulets of polished lemon and honeydew melon, its balance already wondrous, its length impeccable. Drink it tonight or 20 years hence. 97 Points James Halliday.

From one of the leading exponents of Hunter semillon, the blonde maestro himself, Andrew Thomas.
Fine, almost pretty style. Bell clear, fresh fruit, mixed citrus and a firm spine of acidity. Very subtle chalkiness, but clarity is the thing, and a little generosity. Terrific. 95+ Points Gary Walsh, The winefront.

Regular readers will no doubt be aware that I’ve got a lot of time for Andrew Thomas’ Braemore semillon. This is so delicious on release that it’s almost possible to forget its age-worthiness.
It’s intensely, limey – almost kaffir lime – with zippy lemon and pebbly minerality. A hint of salinity and a suggestion of spice. Unwavering focus, a juicy core of flavour and excellent extension. Will offer much pleasure now and later. 96 Points Jeremy Pringle, winewilleatitself.com

A little about the craftsman Andrew Thomas:

1. What are some of your secrets in being able to make, what I believe, are the best Semillons in the country?

Access to some of the very best semillon vineyards in the Hunter Valley is number one, picking just at that window of opportunity of perfect structural balance number two and then of course some attention to detail in the winery… Oh, and this year 2014 we took the extra step of handpicking with headlamps during the night…

2. Are there any differences in the actual winemaking process for the Semillons as opposed to the other white varietals?

Semillon is all about freshness, vibrancy and varietal purity. There is no oak maturation involved and we seek to preserve the delicacy of the fruit from the vineyard to the bottle using cool fermentation and relatively neutral yeasts.

3. What’s the most valuable lesson you’ve learned while working in the wine industry?

You can’t make a silk purse from a sows ear.

4. Who has been your biggest inspiration during your wine career?

Murray Tyrrell from Tyrell’s wines.

5. What’s your desert island wine?

1978 DRC La Tache

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