Soumah

Soumah of Yarra Valley, is owned by brothers Brett and Greg Butcher. Their 50 acre site, in a dress circle location on northern flanks of the Coldstream Hills, was established in 1997.

They launched the Soumah brand in 2010 after a number of years of redeveloping the vineyard and judiciously matching clones to soil types and the various aspects of Soumah’s different vineyard blocks. Soumah winemaker, Scott McCarthy, has been crafting great wine in the Yarra Valley for many years and has always strived to produce compelling, balanced wines that reflect the characters of the site and season from which they come.

The chosen one: Soumah Yarra Valley pinot grigio 2013

My impression:

Aromas of crushed almonds and pears, finishing off with more dried fruit characters such as apricots and prunes.

In the press:

From the same label that burst on the scene last year with its marvelous savagnin-based Savarro, this Warramate Hills-grown PG has a distinctive flinty element to it. This defines its character beyond a definite fresh and crunchily grigio style. It’s way more interesting than many, has genuine texture, natural tasting acidity and a smart presence beside any cuisine.

4.5 out of 5 stars – A cut above – Taste.com.au – September 2011

A little about the craftsman Steven Worley:

1. How did you get involved in the world of wine?

I was initially inspired by 10 years working in France as an alpine ski coach. That showed me how beautifully food and wine and life are inextricably entwined within the French culture and also allowed me time at the end of each ski season to discover new wine regions. Would have loved to embark on a career in wine then but thought I’d better get “a real job” instead. Retired from skiing in my early 30’s and spent 5 years as an exploration geologist (Masters in geology from Otago University) for Western Mining Co. Plenty of time in the field alone to think and come to the realisation that I could combine my interest in earth science, my love of travel and wine and get over my misconception that wine making sounded like too much fun to be a real job. Enrolled in the first intake of a Post Graduate Degree in Winemaking and Viticulture at Melbourne Uni. My first job was with master winemakers in the Yarra Valley in a sales and marketing role. I took the job on the understanding that I could do vintage as well and it’s been a wonderful ride since then.

2. What is your wine making philosophy?

I spend a lot of time in the vineyard, handing tending the vines, green harvesting, leaf plucking etc. I need to give the fruit a chance to get the most out of each season. Then it’s gently crafting it so it tells that story. I’m not looking for over extracted, very ripe flavours but balance and character.

3. If you weren’t involved in wine, what would you be doing?

Grass roots exploration or geological consulting and taking lots of ski holidays. I’m lucky enough to be able to spend a bit of time each year following my eldest daughter, Tessa on the World cup ski circuit. She’s made a career out of it and I manage to get to one or two events in the Northern hemisphere each year before vintage kicks in.

4. What are some of the biggest changes you have seen in winemaking since you began your career?

The change in consumer preference from high alcohol, very full bodied styles to a more medium bodied balanced style. This started gradually in the early to mid 2000’s with more affordable quality imports including more restrained European wines arriving on our shores and accelerated when the AUD took off. Translating this to the Australian winery I think we are looking for less wow factor and more sensitivity toward the fruit. This allows it to tell the real story of the site and the season from where it comes. This might sound like winemaking baloney, but when you’ve done it a few years you get to know your fruit and you see how the fruit and wine react to each season, but each year if you get it right you can still see the site character showing through.

5. What would you hope people say about your wine?

That they are first and foremost a good drink! Secondly I’d like them to be compelling, interesting wines.