Hobart


Poor old Hobart, pretty but dull. Since it was founded as a penal colony beside Sullivans Cove in 1804, the natural beauty of Australia’s second-oldest city has been tempered by its reputation for quaint conservatism. Now, however, it is a place of olive trees and truffles, peopled not by giants or long-distance detainees, but by escapees from the Australian humdrum – painters, sculptors and artisanal fruit producers who tend vines and heritage apple and pear trees. They come for the cleanest air in the world, and the slow food, in fact Hobart  now boasts some of the country’s hottest restaurants. Hobart, Tasmania’s diminutive capital, just over an hour by air from Sydney and Melbourne, offers a low-key city experience in the best Australian tradition: sunny, easy waterfront life, with superlative food and wine. Go before this magical island recedes into the maelstroms of the Southern Ocean.

Wine

  • Coal Valley Vineyard– the 5 ha vineyard  with steep north facing slopes, is dedicated to riesling, chardonnay, pinot noir, cabernet sauvignon, merlot and tempranillo. (257 Richmond Road, Cambridge). Cellar door open Wednesday to Sunday 11am – 5pm.
  • Craigow Vineyard– located at Cambridge, a 30 minute drive from Hobart, Craigow vineyard was one of the first vineyards established in the Coal River Valley.  Growing conditions in Coal River Valley are ideal for the classic cool-climate varieties of pinot noir, riesling, chardonnay and gerwürztraminer. It was once home to the largest apricot orchard in the state. The dessert wines are a house specialty. In 2008 Craigow won the Tasmanian vineyard of the year award. (528 Richmond Road, Cambridge). Daily January to March, other times by appointment.
  • Derwent Estate–  family owned and operated since 1913. A wonderful range of cool climate wines. My personal favourits are their pinot gris, full of Turkish delight flavours, and classic pinot noir- a glass filled with strawberries and light cherry flavours.  (329 Lyell Highway, Granton. Cellar door open 10am – 4pm, Wednesday to Sunday, October to April).
  • Domaine A/Stoney vineyard– the Coal River’s most famous winery, Domaine A, has bucked the common sense view that southern Tasmania is simply too cold to make world class cabernet. The cabernets are not released until several years after the vintage and are deliberately aimed at the serious wine drinker who is prepared to put the wine down for a decent cellaring period. Every detail is covered, with the Stoney vineyard range made from fruit that doesn’t pass the rigorous selection process to achieve Domaine A status.(105 Tea Tree Rd, Campania). Cellar door open Monday to Friday 10am – 4pm.
  • Frogmore Creek– the rieslings and pinot noirs are must-tries and the gewürztraminer will enchant many.  They also produce a wide range of cool climate styles under their 42 degrees south label. (699 Richmond Road, Cambridge). Cellar door open 7 days, 10-5
  • Home Hill– a boutique winery and restaurant surrounded by a spectacular state forest. The profile of the winery has lifted significantly outside of Tasmania since the pinot noir won the pinot trophy at the 2007 tri nations challenge between Australia, New Zealand and South Africa. (38 Nairn St, Ranaleigh). Cellar door open 7 days, 10-4.
  • Moorilla Estate– the list of must-visit wineries in Tasmania is a long one. At the very top is Moorilla Estate. Yes, the wines here are very good – better than ever, actually – but this is also home to MONA (Museum of Old and New Art), a truly world-class art gallery, with associated facilities. Quite simply, those behind the project don’t give a fig for potential profits, but rather want to make the best wine possible. Unlike many others here, in the debate of terroir versus style, Moorilla has taken up the cause of the latter, combining grapes from vineyards from anywhere on the island where they believe it will result in a better wine. There is also a brewery making the delicious Moo Brews. For beer lovers, there is something very special here. The new wine bar has one of the most amazing beer lists anywhere on the planet. (655 Main Rd, Berriedale). Cellar door open 7 days, 10-5.
  • Pooley Wines– the Pooleys are one of the Tasmania’s most famous and long standing wine-producing  families with three generations involved. Riesling is a focus here, with three different versions, and inevitably, terrific pinot noir. (1431 Richmond Rd, Richmond). Cellar door open 7 days, 11-5.
  • Stefano Lubiana- the sparkling wines are rich and full of character, the premium collina chardonnay winning a truckload of medals and accolades, and the fresh primavera pinot noir making a nice entry point to the full-throttle estate pinot noir. (60 Rowbottoms Rd, Granton). Cellar door open Sunday-Thursday 11am – 3pm.

Dine

  • Burger Got Soul– their website description says it all- “Our burgers are more than just a burger, they are burgers with soul. The soul starts with our ingredients that are sourced from the freshest Tasmanian produce including 100% lean beef or free range chicken and eggs, accompanied by vegetables and salads delivered direct from the markets every day. Our staff are genuine foodies that will pour their heart and soul into making what we hope will be the best burger you have ever had.” (160 Sandy Bay Road, Dynnyrne). http://burgergotsoul.com/
  • Dev’Lisha tiny cafe that is always crowded with regulars who come here for a fix of very good coffee and a takeaway or eat-in lunch. (137 Macquarie Street, Hobart).
  • Ettie’s– the best meal I had in Hobart was at Etties. It comprises a menu of gently reinterpreted classics. It’s also terrific value for money. (100 Elizabeth St, Hobart)http://www.etties.com.au/
  • Fico– A wonderful amalgamation of Italian and Japanese cuisine. Fico: it’s where Hobart wants to eat right now. (151 Macquarie Street, Hobart) https://www.ficofico.net/menu/
  • Fish frenzy if you want to take in Hobart’s sights across a table, wander across to Elizabeth Pier and into fish frenzy. They claim to serve the best fish and chips in Australia; order some fried treats and make up your own mind. (Elizabeth Street Pier, Sullivans Cove, Hobart). http://www.fishfrenzy.com.au/
  • Frank Restaurant– a much-needed addition to Hobart’s waterfront where you can enjoy the sweet, smoky flavours and generous serves of Latin America. (1 Franklin Wharf, Hobart)http://frankrestaurant.com.au
  • Franklin– a breathtaking new bar and restaurant established by talented chef David Moyle and long-term industry player Ben Lindell. The bar menu is short and features the best of Tasmania’s amazing produce with an emphasis on fresh seafood. The wine list features a carefully curated range of natural wines from Australia, France and Italy. There is also an interesting selection of beers from Tasmania and beyond. (28 Argyle St, Hobart)
  • Jack Greene– a gourmet burger bar offering 18 different burgers in a setting and decor the likes of which Hobart has not seen before. There is also an excellent selection of local and international craft beers. (49 Salamanca Place, Hobart)
  • Pigeon Hole cafegreat coffee and eggs with equally delicious pastries and breads from the wood-fired oven.The cafe is housed in an old butcher shop that seats just 16. (93 Goulburn Street, West Hobart )
  • Ristorante Da Angelo– for a taste of authentic, home-style Italian cooking and atmosphere, a visit here is a must. In true italian fashion just about everything is freshly made on the premises. It’s a five minute walk from Salamanca place or 10 minutes from the city. (47 Hampden Road, Battery Point)
  • Roaring Grill– all seasonal fruits,vegetables, meat and seafood sourced from the best local producers. Their steak selection is a particular highlight. (301 Elizabeth St, North Hobart) http://roaringgrill.com/
  • Room for a pony– great wood fire pizza’s. (338 Elizabeth St, North Hobart). http://www.roomforapony.com.au/
  • Smolt Kitchen– A wonderful warm,bright, breezy, informal cafe with colourful tables and see-through portholes into two kitchens. We were there for breakfast and it was a real highlight. My favourite dish was their baked eggs pepped up with spiced eggplant. Their smashed avocado on toast was also mouthwatering. (107 – 109 Hill St, West Hobart) http://smoltkitchen.com.au/
  • The Schwartz– made to order sandwiches and salads using the finest quality ingredients all sourced locally. (133 Elizabeth Street, Hobart)
  • The Standard– serving both quality interpretations of the ultimate American Burger while also creating new variations of the Californian classic. (Hudsons Lane off Liverpool street, Hobart) http://www.standard-burgers.com
  • The Source restaurant at MONA– French inspired cuisine with a twist. They also do an excellent breakfast, too, which is complimentary with a stay at the pavilions. (655 Main Road, Berriedale). http://www.mona.net.au/mona/restaurant
  • Templo– templo is a small, 20 seat restaurant in the back streets of Hobart that focuses on perfecting the simple things that matter most about dining – high quality, produce driven food, unique drinks, communal dining and fun. The menu is small with an Italian bent – featuring around 10 items that change depending on what’s fresh and good on the day. (98 Patrick Street, Hobart). https://www.templo.com.au/
  • Three Japanese– a clean, slightly stark room and neat plywood furnishings are clues to the thinking at Three Japanese. Fussy and complicated? Not here. Instead, an assured kitchen serves food that speaks of clarity and simplicity. (38 Waterloo Cres, Battery Point). http://www.threejapanese.com.au/menu/
  • Tricycle café and bara great lunch time destination tucked away from Salamanca’s masses. The specials are always designed to match the mood of the day, so if it is a hot sultry day there might be a couple of light salads and a cold soup on special. In the depth of winter the style changes to hot soups and braised dishes. (77 Salamanca Place, Hobart).

Recline

  • Henry Jones art hotel – with 56 rooms, on the picturesque waterfront, its bigger then the Islington, but retains a boutique feel thanks to the more than 300 artworks hanging on its walls and the heritage feel of the old IXL jam factory that it once was. Boasting exposed weathered wooden beams and sensitive restoration, the rooms have a definite wow factor.  The hotel isn’t just a feast for the eyes, Henry’s restaurant will keep your tastebuds happy, as will Jam Packed Café, while the IXL Long Bar is perfect for a pre-or-post dinner tipple. http://www.thehenryjones.com/
  • Lenna of Hobart– located in the heart of historic Battery Point, Lenna is a modern hotel combined with a beautifully preserved colonial mansion. Adjacent to Salamanca place, only a few minutes’ walk to the city centre, it offers 50 newly refurbished ensuite rooms with mountain, park or harbour views, and two, two-bedroom penthouse apartments. http://www.lenna.com.au/
  • MACq01– I thought I would just share my recent review. “MACq 01, Hobart’s newest high-end hotel, tells the story of Tasmania’s history through its 114 rooms, which each a reference to a local character from its first people, inventors and explorers to convicts and heroes. Each front door bears a plaque containing a potted biography of its character. Space and natural light are features of every room, from the oversized standards to loft… apartment-like suites at each end of the building. Spacious bathrooms with textured timber floors (even in the shower – lovely underfoot), dedicated space for luggage, individually decorated bedheads (by local artist Troy Ruffels) and brilliant minibars stocked with games, snacks and Tassie spirits make these rooms to hang out in. Special mention must be made of the ultra comfortable beds. Not only are the features five-star, the service is too. All the hotel staff were excellent in making our stay thoroughly enjoyable. This boutique hotel provides a luxurious space to call home while you explore the beautiful city centre”. http://www.macq01.com.au/
  • MONA Pavilions– maverick, multi-tasking MONA pavilions mixes a serene riverside setting with ultra-contemporary pavilions, original art, a winery, microbrewery, a lip-smacking restaurant and alternative festivals – and comes up trumps. With an ambitious private museum also on site, this is one for culture vultures, gourmets, gadget heads and style fiends. Staying here is an experience everyone should experience in their lifetime. http://www.mona.net.au/mona/accommodation/the-pavilions/
  • Salamanca Wharf hotel– the hotel is located just metres from the waterfront, adjacent to Salamanca place. Each of its contemporary, self-contained boutique apartments offer ultimate comfort and convenience in one of the oldest and most picturesque areas in Australia. http://www.salamancawharfhotel.com/
  • Sullivans Cove Apartments– a selection of spacious and contemporary self-contained one, two, three and four bedroom apartments located in multiple precincts around Hobart’s harbour. All apartments are spacious with a modern five star fit-out.  http://www.sullivanscoveapartments.com.au/
  • The Islington hotel– with enough old-world charm to impress the staunchest of contemporary fans, the Islington takes the historic and makes it cool and convivial. In any of the 11 suites, you can sink into a custom-made ultra-comfy king-sized bed each night. Or soak in a free-standing bath tub in your private marble bathroom, lathering up in luscious aesop amenities. Outside is pretty special too – large manicured gardens, views of Mount Wellington and pond-side places to enjoy a good book. Then there are little extras like the complimentary mini-bar, iPads in every room and home-baked organic treats at your disposal. Also make time to sample from the hotel’s own wine cellar, featuring Tassie’s best drops. Not to mention the restaurant – renowned for delicious seasonal menus using Tasmanian produce. And for the full-cooked complimentary breakfasts each morning , there is no menu – guests are encouraged to order anything they desire. http://www.islingtonhotel.com/
  • Woodbridge on the Derwent– a small and personal retreat, with only nine luxuriously equipped rooms and suites. An Australian award-winning renovation transformed the mansion into a boutique hotel, and it was selected as Tasmania’s first member of small luxury hotels of the world. The hotel is a 25 minute drive from Hobart. http://www.woodbridgenn.com.au/

Plus

  • Cascade Brewery– as Australia’s oldest brewery and an extraordinary example of colonial architecture, the Cascade Brewery is worth a visit. You can inspect the brewery works built from 1824 and its distinctive four- and five-storey high building with its “wedding cake” Victorian façade – as well as the surrounding lovely gardens – in twice daily (weekday) tours. http://www.cascadebreweryco.com.au/#/brewery/tours
  • Chado, The Way of Tea- this Tasmanian teahouse is a welcome little city retreat, with more than 80 different kinds of teas from China, Taiwan, Japan, Sri Lanka, Africa, South America and India. (134 Elizabeth St, Hobart)
  • Cool wines– an independent downtown wine shop with a loyal local following. (Shop 8, MidCity Arcade, Criterion st, Hobart). http://www.coolwine.com.au/
  • Ecru coffee– hole in the wall that just does coffee. Great if you are in a hurry. (18 Criterion Street Hobart). http://www.ecrucoffee.com.au/Ecru_Coffee.html
  • Gasworks Cellar Door– if you don’t have time to get out of Hobart and visit some wineries, come here. You can try all different varieties of wines from all over Tasmania. There are 16 Tasmanian wines always on tasting. (2 Macquarie Street, Hobart). http://gasworkscellardoor.com.au/
  • Grandvewe Cheesefamily owned and run, Grandvewe cheese is Tasmania’s only organic ‘Sheep Milk Cheesery’. With names like ‘Blue By Ewe’ and ‘Ewephoria’, their cheese, yoghurt, gelato and wine has won medals and awards nationwide. Guests can experience sheep milking demonstrations from September through to March and children are welcome to feed and pet the lambs during the summer months. The cheesery is a 40 minute drive from Hobart. (59 Devlyns Rd, Birchs Bay). http://grandvewe.com.au/
  • Handmark Gallery sells Tasmanian- made ceramics, glass, jewellery, art and other pieces. (77  Salamanca Place, Hobart).  http://www.handmarkgallery.com/
  • Jackman and McRossa long running and very popular bakery and cafe. (57 Hampden Road, Battery Point ).
  • Lark Distillery- if whisky is your thing, a visit here is a must. (14 Davey Street, Hobart). http://www.larkdistillery.com.au/
  • MONA- millionaire entrepreneur, and proud Hobart resident, David Walsh’s Museum of Old and New Art, is the masterstroke that finally brought the city the crowds and credibility it deserves. Since it opened in 2011, more than 600,000 visitors have come to experience this wonderful place. The magnificent museum, a $180 million confection housing Walsh’s personal collection of contemporary art and antiquities, is breathtaking, bizarre and utterly brilliant; an irreverant mix that inspires, delights, challenges and confronts. Australia, you owe David Walsh a drink! (655 Main Road, Berriedale). http://www.mona.net.au/
  • Mount Wellington– at 1,270 metres, Mount Wellington, and its surrounding parkland, guarantees dazzling photos for even the least camera-capable. Head for the top if you dare and admire the incredible view. Layer up though – there’s a bone-battering wind chill on gusty days. The amazing thing about this must-see mountain is that no matter how sunny and warm it is on the drive (or hike) up, the temperature is at least 10 degrees lower at the peak! It may even be snowing if you’re lucky!
  • Pilgrim Coffee– has slowly emerged as one of Hobart’s leading places to head to for serious coffee. (48 Argyle Street, Hobart).
  • Salamanca Marketsheld every Saturday between 8:30am and 3pm, the markets are worth a look, as much for the relaxed ambience as for the local arts and crafts on sale. (located between the lawns and historic buildings of Salamanca Place)
  • Sidecar– a small bar with the same owners as Garagistes and housed just around the corner. (129 Bathurst Street Hobart)
  • Sweet Envy– a pretty French-style pâtisserie run by two Tasmanian-born graduates of Gordon Ramsay’s empire. Don’t forget to try their freshly churned ice-creams that come in improbable flavours like banana cassis and salted almond caramel. (341 Elizabeth St, North Hobart)
  • Sullivans Cove whisky– since it’s establishment Sullivans Cove whisky has become one of the most desired single malt whiskies in the world. The distillery’s already brim-full trophy cabinet was joined in 2014 by the biggest one yet, when Sullivans Cove French oak was named the world’s best single malt whisky at the prestigious world whisky awards in London. (1/14 Lamb Place, Cambridge). http://sullivanscovewhisky.com/
  • The Abbey cider lounge– check out the range of local draft ciders and the cider-heavy bottle shop. (236 Sandy Bay Road, Sandy Bay)
  • West End Pumphouse– fresh, funky and innovative, West End Pumphouse has made its mark for fresh, quality blend coffee and casual by day, stylish by night dining options. (105 Murray Street, Hobart). http://www.pumphouse.com.au/
  • EVENTS– Taste of  Tasmania- Tasmania’s premier summer event, offering more than 70 food and beverage stalls, as well as art exhibitions and performance stages based in and around the historic Sullivans Cove. Bring in the new year with a longer lasting bang. (Saturday 28 December 2018 until Saturday 3 January 2019).

 

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